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Istanbul Iskembecisi – late night dining

There’s never enough time in the day to fit everything in.

First of all you need to work. (Or, if you’re on holiday, there’s always something to see – somewhere to go – and you’re not finished till nearly six.) Then, you’re going out in the evening, to the theatre or to a gig, and you have to get there. So you end up occupying all the time between six and seven-thirty just getting yourself there. Or changing out of your work gear. And then you get to the gig, and then you get out of it and it’s nearly eleven and wouldn’t you know it, everywhere you could get a bite to eat is closed!

Not if you have the sense to make your way to Hackney. The Istanbul Iskembecisi is open at least till two in the morning, and some of my friends have said it can be 5am before it shuts (though I wouldn’t necessarily take that on trust).

It doesn’t look that appetising. I suspect last time it got a through redecoration was about 1950. Or at least, it looks that way.

But you’re not here for the decor. You’re here to eat. And even if you’re not brave enough to go for the tripe soup (I’m not) there are plenty of other appetising dishes to go for, including a wide range of grilled meat and fish. If you’re indecisive – just go for the meze, a fantastic way to sample Turkish cuisine.

The prices are reasonable too – two of you can get out of the restaurant for less than thirty quid all told.

Istanbul Iskembecisi is at 9, Stoke Newington Road – a number 149 bus from Liverpool Street will get you there, or ‘overground’ train to Dalston Kingsland.

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