The London Traveler

In between the cutting edge of BritArt and BritPop (which I’ll admit is hardly cutting edge any more, really) and the classical tourist appeal of Westminster or the Ritz, there’s a twentieth-century London that we’ve almost lost sight of completely. Post-war and early Sixties London are almost foreign countries for us these days.

The Ace Cafe is a real historic site. It opened in 1938, as a roadside cafe catering for traffic on the new North Circular road. The cafe was soon joined by a petrol station. Damaged in the Second World War, it was rebuilt in a sort of late Art Deco style in 1949.

Soon, bikers were flocking to the caff – the ‘Ton-Up Boys’, in black leather and Brylcreem, were precursors of teenage pop culture. Rock’n'roll was as much a part of the cafe’s life as bikes – and it saw the Sixties through in cracking style. The late Fifties and early Sixties were its great era – this was the place to be.

The cafe’s days were numbered though – by the end of the Sixties the life had gone out of the scene, and the Ace closed down in 1969.

In the late 90s, though, a madman with a dream decided to recreate the Ace Cafe. After a complete rebuild, it reopened in September 2001 – and now attracts bikers from all over London and further afield.

If you’re into bikes at all this is a great place to come. Just wander round the forecourt and you’ll see classic bikes dating from the 1950s onwards – Ducattis, classic racing bikes, ancient Army despatch rider bikes, Vespas glistening with chrome, Harleys, a complete mix. Classic car and hotrod clubs also meet here for those with a preference for four over two wheels.

And if you’re into peoplewatching you’ll see all types – fantastically dressed rockers,  covered in black leather and silver studs, racers in bright dayglo leathers, even the occasional mod (or should that be post-mod?)

There’s often good music on here, as you’d expect with a focus on rock and blues. And since it’s a caff, it still does food – including porridge (not a lot of places you can get that in London!) , steaks, bangers and burgers, and all kinds of ‘quick fixes’ such as cheesy chips.

We talk a lot about ‘our heritage’ in England. But let’s remember that our real heritage includes working class and teenage rebels – not just the houses and clubs of the ruling classes but the ancient cafes and roadhouses where Mods and Rockers rioted. The Ace Cafe is a little piece of post-War London preserved in its own time capsule into the twenty first century – and it’s also a marvellous place to hang out for the thoroughly modern biker.

Where: North Circular Road, near Park Royal  (Stonebridge Park railway station)

When: 0700-2300 Monday to Saturday

0700-2230 Sundays and Bank Holidays

Photo credit – Mark Wootton  on Flickr

1 Comment