The London Traveler

If you want to find a bargain at Bermondsey’s weekly antiques market, you’ll need to get up ridiculously early; it opens at 6 am (or even earlier - some people get there at 4!)  and is normally all but over by midday. That reflects an ancient - and now repealed - law of ‘marche ouvert’, under which specified markets at certain times could pass title to the buyer even if the goods turned out to be stolen. (Normally, if you buy something that is later found to be stolen, you lose your money - unless the seller indemnified you against this risk.)

Bermondsey is now the shadow of its former self - it used to be much bigger, though it still claims 500 traders. The withdrawal of its market ouvert privileges and the redevelopment of part of the site have reduced its appeal.

Besides, it’s no longer the best place for bargains - some of the stuff on sale is over-priced. That may reflect the gentrification of much of the surrounding area - or it may just reflect the way all kinds of antiques and what we used to call ‘junk’ but now call ‘collectables’ have become much more highly valued.

Still, I rather like Bermondsey when it’s just getting light, in winter, perhaps with a little mist blowing over the river. It’s an odd ambience; buyers are examining the antiques by flashlight, you see the spark of a cigarette lighter somewhere, or a torch beam flashes across your eyes. Then as day slowly arrives, it loses its half-menacing, half-romantic feel, and becomes melancholy and a little faded in the grey light of an overcast London dawn.

I’ve never bothered in summer… I suppose I just want to always see it this way. (In summer, I head for Portobello instead, or the little market at Camden Passage, Islington.)

I don’t come looking to buy - I just come to see the market, find interesting things to photograph, watch the traders, and get myself nicely in the mood for a hot cup of coffee for elevenses.

If you’re seriously into antiques there are a few very good stalls. Silver and coins seem to be specialities and I’ve been told some of the furniture is pretty good.  This is certainly not a flea market - if you want that, try Brick Lane.

I’ll warn you, the market is a good long walk from London Bridge Station - unless you’re feeling fit, you might want to take a taxi.

When: Friday morning, 6am onwards

Where: Bermondsey Square, SE1