I should say, before anything else, that I consider myself a fairly composed individual. I have lived in London long enough to have developed the standard-issue Londoner’s immunity to spectacle. Tourists stop in the middle of pavements. Londoners do not. Tourists point at things. Londoners stare fixedly ahead, radiating mild impatience. It is practically written into the terms and conditions of living here.

All of which makes what happened on an otherwise unremarkable Thursday morning rather difficult to explain. I had just collected my mocha from Notes Coffee at the base of 30 St Mary Axe – the Gherkin, to anyone with functioning eyes – and stepped out onto the pavement feeling thoroughly pleased with myself and the day ahead. The coffee was excellent, as it always is. The sun was making one of its occasional guest appearances over the City. Life, in short, was good.

And then something at the very edge of my vision made me stop dead.

I looked up. Then I looked up a bit more. And then I stood there, on the pavement of one of the busiest financial districts in the world, with my mouth open and my mocha going cold, staring at two men dangling off the side of a building approximately 150 feet above my head as though this were a perfectly routine thing to be doing on a Thursday.

Which, it turns out, for them it absolutely was.

Wait. Are Those Men Actually Hanging Off That Building?

Let me describe what abseiling window cleaning looks like from street level, for those who have not yet had the pleasure. Imagine two human beings suspended from the roof of a forty-storey glass building by what appears, from the ground, to be a length of string. They are seated in small cradles – harnesses, really – with their feet braced against the glass, and they are moving across the surface of the building with a calm, methodical efficiency that suggests they have absolutely no awareness of, or interest in, the several hundred feet of air beneath them. Later, when they arrived at ground level, I saw that the logo on their backs said “Anyclean“.

One of them was, I am fairly certain, having a perfectly ordinary conversation with the other. I could not hear what was being said from where I stood, but the body language was unmistakably casual. The sort of posture you might adopt while discussing what to have for lunch. Except that the lunch conversation was happening on the outside of one of London’s most distinctive skyscrapers, at a height that would have made most sensible people reconsider their career choices entirely.

I watched them work their way steadily across the glass, squeegees moving in long, practised arcs. Unhurried. Cheerful, even. I, by contrast, was frozen solid on the pavement below, mocha in hand, neck at a ninety-degree angle, completely and utterly transfixed.

The Pavement Audience Nobody Talks About

After a minute or so, I became aware that I was not alone in this. A small, self-conscious cluster of fellow pedestrians had formed nearby – perhaps four or five of us – all craning upward with the same expression of baffled admiration. None of us acknowledged each other. Nobody said a word. We simply stood there in companionable silence, watching men clean windows in the sky.

This, I think, is deeply British. The shared experience, the mutual fascination, the absolute refusal to make eye contact or discuss it openly. A New Yorker would have struck up a conversation. A Roman would have made an operatic gesture of astonishment. We stood in a small, quiet cluster and dispersed after two minutes as though nothing had happened.

The Tourist With the Camera From the Rural Midwest

Here is the part where I must be honest with myself, which is always mildly uncomfortable.

Elsewhere on this site, I have been known to affectionately tease visitors to London – particularly American ones – for the habit of stopping dead on busy pavements, staring upward at buildings, and generally behaving as though the city were a particularly elaborate theme park constructed for their personal amazement. I have written about the wide-eyed tourist with the camera, the craned neck, the total unconsciousness of the fifteen Londoners trying to get past.

I was, on this Thursday morning, that tourist. Completely and without qualification. The only things missing were the camera and the fanny pack. If someone from the rural Midwest who had never seen a skyscraper in their life had wandered past at that moment, they would not have been able to tell us apart. We would have been indistinguishable – two people looking up at a tall building with identical expressions of helpless wonder.

My mocha was genuinely cold by the time I remembered it existed. This is the detail that shames me most.

In my defence – and I am aware this is a thin defence – there is a meaningful difference between gawking at a building and gawking at two human beings casually defying mortality on the outside of one. The building I can see any day. The men on the ropes were something else entirely. At least that is what I told myself as I stood there for considerably longer than I am going to admit in print.

The Gherkin Itself – Worth Craning Your Neck For

Since I had evidently decided to spend my Thursday morning staring at 30 St Mary Axe, it seems only fair to give the building itself a moment in the spotlight.

The Gherkin – and everyone calls it that, including the people who work inside it – was completed in 2003 and designed by Norman Foster and Partners. It stands 180 metres tall, which is roughly forty storeys, and it remains one of the most immediately recognisable buildings in London despite being surrounded, these days, by an increasingly crowded skyline of similarly ambitious neighbours. The Cheesegrater is next door. The Walkie-Talkie is a short stroll away. The City of London has developed, in recent decades, a rather competitive relationship with its own skyline.

And yet the Gherkin holds its own. There is something about the shape – tapered at the top, widest in the middle, clad entirely in a spiral pattern of triangular glass panels – that makes it look simultaneously futuristic and oddly organic. Like a pinecone designed by someone with a very large budget and an interesting relationship with Euclidean geometry.

Why Does It Look Like That, Exactly?

The shape is not merely aesthetic, though it works beautifully on that level too. The aerodynamic profile reduces wind pressure at street level – a genuine consideration when you are proposing to build something of this size in the middle of a dense urban neighbourhood. The spiralling diagonal structure also means the building uses less steel than a conventional rectangular tower of the same height, which is the sort of detail that pleases engineers enormously and gives architects something to mention at dinner parties.

The triangular glass panels, meanwhile, are what make the whole thing possible to clean. Which brings us, neatly, back to the men on the ropes.

The Men on the Ropes – An Honest Appreciation

I have been trying, since that Thursday morning, to imagine the job interview for abseiling window cleaner on a building like the Gherkin. I picture a fairly standard assessment process – references, qualifications, a discussion of one’s previous experience – followed by a fairly non-standard concluding question along the lines of: “And how do you feel, generally speaking, about heights?”

Because the men I watched were not merely comfortable at height. They were entirely indifferent to it. They moved across the glass with the relaxed efficiency of someone hoovering a living room carpet, except that the living room was several hundred feet above the City of London and the carpet was a curved glass surface at a thirty-degree angle. One of them paused at one point, apparently to adjust something on his harness, and looked down at the street below with an expression that I can only describe as mildly curious. The way you might glance at a garden from an upstairs window.

I found this simultaneously inspiring and deeply unsettling, which I think is the correct response.

There are approximately 7,000 buildings in the City of London that require regular external cleaning. The people who do this work – rope access technicians, to use the proper term – are qualified to a rigorous standard and operate under strict safety protocols. This does absolutely nothing to make watching them look any less extraordinary from the ground. Some things are spectacular regardless of how routine they are for the people involved. This is one of them.

Notes Coffee – The Perfect Vantage Point

A brief but sincere word about Notes, since it provided the starting point for all of this.

Notes Coffee has several locations across the City and central London, and the one at the base of the Gherkin – on St Mary Axe itself – is among the best. The coffee is serious without being intimidating about it, which is a balance not every speciality coffee shop manages to strike. The mocha that went cold in my hand while I stood on the pavement gawking was, up until that point, excellent. I went back in afterwards and had another one, which the staff found mildly amusing once I explained what had happened.

If you are visiting the area and want a decent vantage point for the building – and, should fortune favour you, perhaps a glimpse of the window cleaning operation – the pavement directly outside Notes is precisely where you want to be. Take your coffee outside. Look up. Try not to let it go cold.

A City That Never Stops Surprising You

I have lived in London for most of my adult life, and I am still occasionally stopped in my tracks by it. Not by the landmarks I could find with my eyes closed, not by the history I know chapter and verse, but by the unremarkable Thursday morning moments – the small, unexpected things that happen in the gaps between everything else.

Two men cleaning windows on the outside of a glass building. Forty floors up. Completely unbothered. On an ordinary morning in the City.

That is London, really. Not the museums, not the palaces, not even the pubs – though obviously the pubs are essential. It is the thing you did not see coming, the moment that stops you mid-stride with a cold mocha in your hand and reminds you that this city, after all these years, still has plenty left to show you.

Look up more often. You will be amazed what you have been missing.

I came to A.J. Cronin’s The Citadel the way most people discover something truly worthwhile – entirely by accident. A friend thrust it into my hands with the conviction usually reserved for religious conversion, and within a few chapters I was utterly lost in it. Dr. Andrew Manson, newly qualified and brimming with ideals, arrives in London and finds himself in Paddington – a neighbourhood that Cronin paints as grimy, exhausted, and entirely indifferent to his ambitions. It is brilliant, sobering stuff.

And it got me thinking. What would any of Cronin’s characters make of Paddington today? More to the point, what do first-time visitors – particularly those arriving from across the Atlantic – make of it when the London they find looks nothing like the London they had been promised by a century of great literature?

Cronin’s Paddington – A World Away From the Brochure

The Citadel, published in 1937, is many things: a love story, a medical drama, and a scalding critique of the British healthcare system that is widely credited with laying the moral groundwork for the NHS. But it is also, quietly, one of the finest portraits of working-class London ever written.

Paddington in Cronin’s telling is a place of damp terraces, thin walls, and neighbours who have long since stopped expecting very much from life. Dr. Manson trudges through its streets with his black bag and his conscience, treating patients in overcrowded flats, watching idealism slowly scrape against hard reality. The area is not villainous – Cronin is too good a writer for caricature – but it is worn down, and it wears its weariness openly.

This was not artistic licence. Paddington in the early twentieth century was genuinely one of London’s more troubled inner-city districts. The grand Victorian terraces that had once housed prosperous families had, by the inter-war years, been carved up into lodgings and bedsits. The canal basin was industrial and unloved. The air, one imagines, was not great.

Who Was A.J. Cronin, and Why Should You Care?

Archibald Joseph Cronin was a Scottish physician turned novelist, and the combination matters enormously. He did not write about poverty and illness from a comfortable distance – he had seen it first-hand as a doctor in the Welsh mining valleys and later in London. The Citadel drew directly on those experiences, which is precisely why it cuts so deep. It was a bestseller on both sides of the Atlantic and remains essential reading for anyone who wants to understand what British urban life actually looked and felt like before the welfare state arrived to change things.

Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill with the Blue Plaque celebrating Archibald Cronin

The American in London – In Search of a Museum That Doesn’t Exist

Here is something I have noticed about many American visitors to London, and I say this with enormous affection: they arrive expecting the novel. Not any particular novel, but a composite of all of them – the fog-drenched alleyways of Dickens, the brooding melancholy of Hardy somehow transplanted to the city streets, perhaps a touch of Sherlock Holmes lurking around every corner. London, in the literary imagination, is preserved in amber. It is gaslit, cobbled, and populated by characters in heavy coats who speak in complete sentences.

The reality, of course, is that London is a living city. It changes, regenerates, tears things down, builds things up, and occasionally surprises even those of us who have lived here for decades. Nowhere illustrates this more sharply than Paddington.

I have met visitors who arrived at Paddington station with a copy of The Citadel tucked under their arm, fully expecting to step out into something approximating Cronin’s world. The look on their faces when they emerged into the bright, glass-and-steel environs of the modern neighbourhood was – let us say – memorable. One actually asked me if they were in the right place. They were. London had simply moved on without consulting the reading list.

What Actually Happened to Paddington?

The short answer is regeneration, on a scale that would have been unimaginable to anyone wandering these streets in 1937. The longer answer involves decades of gradual change, significant investment, and the kind of urban transformation that London has proved remarkably good at pulling off.

The post-war years were not kind to Paddington. Like much of inner London, the area suffered from bomb damage, neglect, and the slow haemorrhage of investment toward the suburbs. By the 1970s and 80s, parts of it were genuinely rough. Estate agents, had they been feeling honest, might have described it as “characterful.”

Then came the decision – sometime in the late 1990s – to actually do something with the canal.

Paddington Basin – From Industrial Wasteland to Waterside Hotspot

Paddington Basin, the stretch of the Grand Union Canal that cuts through the heart of the area, spent most of the twentieth century as an industrial afterthought. Barges, warehouses, and a general atmosphere of purposeful neglect. Today it is almost unrecognisable. Glass office buildings line the waterfront. Floating restaurants bob alongside the towpath. There are rolling bridges – footbridges that literally roll aside to let boats pass through – that have become minor tourist attractions in their own right.

On a sunny afternoon – and yes, we do occasionally have those in London – the basin is genuinely lovely. Cronin would have thought you were winding him up.

The Station Itself – Brunel’s Masterpiece Gets Its Moment

It would be remiss not to mention Paddington station, which was always architecturally magnificent even when the surrounding neighbourhood was not. Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s great iron-and-glass terminus, completed in 1854, is one of the finest railway stations in the world. For much of the twentieth century it served its purpose admirably while being rather taken for granted. Today, with the Elizabeth line thundering beneath it and the concourse considerably smartened up, the station feels like the centrepiece it always deserved to be. Do look up when you are inside. Most people do not, and the roof is extraordinary.

But Is Any of the Old Paddington Still There?

In the interest of balance – and because I am not entirely in the business of writing estate agent copy – it is worth noting that Paddington has not been entirely scrubbed clean of its character.

Wander a few streets back from the gleaming basin and you will find a neighbourhood that retains some of its old complexity. The streets around Westbourne Park and Harrow Road still feel like a genuinely working city rather than a lifestyle brochure. The area’s long history as a port of arrival for successive waves of immigrants – West Indian, Irish, more recently West African – has left a cultural richness that no amount of waterside development can dissolve. The food, in particular, reflects this beautifully.

This is not the Paddington of boutique coffee and artisanal sourdough alone, though that exists too, naturally. Cronin’s Paddington has gone. But something genuinely interesting replaced it, and that is rather better than nothing.

Your Practical Guide to Paddington Today

Paddington station is served by the Bakerloo, Circle, District, and Hammersmith & City lines, as well as the Elizabeth line and mainline rail services to the West Country and Wales. It is, in short, extremely easy to get to.

From the station, Paddington Basin is a five-minute walk north. The rolling bridge and the canal towpath are free to enjoy – always a bonus in London. For lunch, Darbaar at Merchant Square offers excellent Indian cuisine in a setting that would have been science fiction to Cronin’s characters. If you are after something more traditional, the Mad Bishop and Bear – a Wetherspoon, yes, but a handsome one set inside the station itself – will provide a reliable pint and something solid to eat without frightening the wallet.

If you have time to spare, Little Venice is a fifteen-minute walk west along the canal and is precisely as charming as the name suggests. Bring a camera.

The Lesson Paddington Has to Offer

I still return to The Citadel every few years. It remains a magnificent novel, and Cronin’s Paddington is so vividly drawn that it almost feels real enough to visit. Almost.

The Paddington that exists today – prosperous, glossy, still a little rough around the edges in the best possible way – is not the city Cronin described. It is not the city Dickens described, or Hardy, or any of the other writers who shaped the Anglo-American literary imagination of London. Those writers were documenting their own present, a present that has since become history. The city they loved was alive then. It is alive now, just differently, and in different places.

So by all means, bring your copy of The Citadel to Paddington. Read it on the Elizabeth line if you like. Just do not be disappointed when you look up from the page and find something rather better than what Cronin described. That, I think, is exactly what he was hoping for.

I stood on Baker Street, umbrella in one hand and a sense of adventure in the other. London’s skies were doing their usual grey thing, but hey, that didn’t dampen my spirits. Before me was the address every mystery lover knows: 221B Baker Street. Time to meet the world’s greatest detective.

Stepping inside The Sherlock Holmes Museum, I was transported back to Victorian London. Narrow staircases creaked underfoot, and the scent of old books filled the air. It felt like stepping into one of Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories, minus the threat of a devious villain lurking around the corner.

The sitting room on the first floor was just as I’d imagined. Holmes’s chemistry set cluttered the table, a violin rested casually on a chair, and his famous deerstalker hat hung by the fireplace. I half-expected him to walk in and accuse me of something I didn’t do.

“Fancy a cuppa?” a staff member in period attire asked. That’s British for “Would you like some tea?” I’ve learned that here, tea isn’t just a drink—it’s a national pastime.

Exploring further, I discovered Dr Watson’s bedroom. Medical books and handwritten notes were scattered about, giving insight into the good doctor’s mind. Wax figures depicted scenes from famous cases, like Holmes grappling with Professor Moriarty at the edge of the Reichenbach Falls. It was both eerie and fascinating—kind of like finding out your favourite TV show is based on real events.

One room was filled with letters addressed to Sherlock Holmes. People from around the world still write to him, seeking advice or confessing admiration. The museum staff replies as if Holmes himself were penning the responses. It’s heartwarming and a bit surreal. Imagine sending an email to Superman and getting a reply—only in London.

As I made my way to the gift shop, I couldn’t help but chuckle at the souvenirs. There were magnifying glasses, pipes, and even Sherlock Holmes action figures. I considered buying a pipe but decided against it. Back home, carrying one might get me strange looks—or offers to join a jazz band.

Outside, Baker Street was buzzing with life. Street performers played violins (no doubt a nod to Holmes), and the smell of freshly baked pastries wafted from nearby cafés. I decided to pop into one for a scone. Pro tip: when in England, clotted cream and jam are non-negotiable.

A few observations for fellow travellers:

• Getting There: The Baker Street tube station is your best bet. Plus, riding the Underground is an experience in itself—mind the gap!
• Tickets: You can buy them online or at the door. I suggest getting there early to avoid the queues. Brits love a good queue.
• Local Lingo: If someone offers you a “brolly,” they mean an umbrella. And don’t be surprised when “chips” come out looking like fries.

Visiting The Sherlock Holmes Museum isn’t just about a fictional detective; it’s about immersing yourself in a piece of British culture. Sure, we have our own legends back home, but there’s something uniquely charming about how the British celebrate theirs. They turn fiction into a living, breathing part of the city.

As I left 221B Baker Street, I felt a connection—not just to Sherlock Holmes but to London itself. A place where history and imagination walk hand in hand. And where an American can feel right at home, even if the cars drive on the “wrong” side of the road.

But wait, the great detective’s name is not just tied to Baker Street. If your cuppa is not a cup of tea (pun intended, and I assume you have read the article about Twinnings) but a pint of ale, you should stroll down to Northumberland Street and soak some great atmosphere at the Sherlock Holmes pub. Again, why they didn’t do it anywhere near 221B Baker Street remains a mystery to me.

So, if you find yourself in London, put on your detective hat and visit Sherlock Holmes. Who knows? You might just solve the mystery of why Brits love marmite. Or maybe not—that one’s a real head-scratcher.

Tips for Your Visit:

• Embrace the History: Take your time exploring. Each room is filled with details that tell a story. Do not rush through the museum.
• Interact: The staff are in character and happy to answer questions. It’s like interactive theatre without the stage fright.
• Explore the Neighbourhood: After the museum, stroll around Regent’s Park or visit Madame Tussauds nearby.

London may seem familiar at first glance, but it’s the little differences that make it exciting. Like driving stick shift on the left side or calling cookies “biscuits.” It’s a place where the old meets the new, and every corner has a tale to tell.

In the words of Sherlock Holmes himself, “The game is afoot.” And trust me, it’s a game worth playing.

London, the bustling heart of the United Kingdom, is home to some of the world’s most iconic landmarks, and among them stand two legendary structures that symbolise the city’s history and engineering prowess: London Bridge and Tower Bridge. Each holds a unique charm, steeped in centuries of history and offering distinct experiences for travellers and locals alike.

Unraveling the History and Distinct Features

While often mistaken for its more visually striking counterpart, London Bridge holds a rich historical legacy. The current incarnation of London Bridge is a modern structure, but its roots trace back through time. The Romans recognised the strategic importance of the spot and constructed the original London Bridge around 50 AD, marking a crucial river crossing and playing a pivotal role in London’s growth.

Over the centuries, multiple versions of London Bridge have been erected and replaced. By far the most lasting one was the medieval stone bridge, commissioned by Henry II and finished in 1209 by his son John. The structure stood the test of time, and in the 15th century, there were as many as 140 houses on it.

The current iteration is a functional marvel, spanning the Thames with understated elegance. It embodies a contemporary architectural style, showcasing a sleek design optimised for vehicular traffic and pedestrian passage.

In contrast, Tower Bridge stands as a magnificent testament to Victorian engineering ingenuity. Its iconic twin towers and suspended walkways create a picturesque silhouette against the London skyline. Completed in 1894, Tower Bridge’s primary purpose was to provide a crossing while allowing tall ships to pass beneath, and its mechanism still raises the central span for river traffic today. It also served as a glorified symbol of Britain’s ascendance to the dominant trading and scientific position in the world. Last but not least, it was the setting for the unforgettable closing scene of Guy Ritchie’s Sherlock, where Robert Downey Jr.’s incomparable detective vanquished the evil Lord Blackwood (portrayed superbly by Mark Strong).

The most distinguishing feature of Tower Bridge is its ornate design and the ability to visit the high-level walkways, offering breathtaking views of the city and a glimpse into its mechanical workings. These features have made it one of the most sought-after tourist attractions in the city. Also, if you want to take an iconic picture of riverside London, you can hardly pick a better place!

Exploring the Bridges: Similarities and Contrasts

London Bridge and Tower Bridge hold significant historical importance and serve as essential river crossings. While London Bridge accommodates heavy traffic flow, Tower Bridge remains a working bascule bridge, its majestic form opening to allow river traffic to pass.

Visitors to London Bridge can enjoy a leisurely stroll across the river, taking in the panoramic views of the city’s skyline. The experience is one of modernity and functionality, emphasising the city’s present-day character.

On the other hand, Tower Bridge offers an immersive journey into the past. Exploring its Victorian engine rooms and walking along the high-level walkways provides visitors with a captivating glimpse into the city’s rich industrial heritage.

Getting There and Nearby Attractions

For non-Londoners navigating the city’s bustling streets, reaching these iconic bridges is easily accessible. From main communication hubs like King’s Cross or Paddington Station, travellers can take the Underground to London Bridge or Tower Hill stations.

Once at London Bridge, nearby dining options beckon. Gastropubs and restaurants along Borough High Street offer a variety of cuisines, from traditional English fare to international delights. For a relaxing respite, the River Thames’ banks provide perfect spots to unwind and take in the view. 

Our two gastronomical picks are Casa do Frango London Bridge at 32 Southwark St and the nearby Padella at 6 Southwark St. Casa do Frango is a spacious, sunlit Portuguese restaurant that will satisfy even the most demanding gourmet guests. We strongly recommend the Salgadinhos and the restaurant’s signature Casa Rise. Padella is the perfect spot for pasta lovers and fans of Italian cuisine.

If you are all about Instagram and taking pictures, Sky Garden is a few hundred yards away from the northern entrance of London Bridge. It offers magnificent vistas over the heart of London, including some of its most recognisable attractions. 

Tower Bridge’s vicinity boasts a blend of history and modernity. After exploring the bridge, visitors can indulge in delectable meals at nearby eateries like Le Pont de la Tour, offering fine dining with panoramic views of the Thames. The Tower of London also stands nearby, inviting travellers to delve into centuries of royal history.

Conclusion: Bridging the Past and Present

Though often conflated in popular culture, London Bridge and Tower Bridge each exude their unique allure and significance. London Bridge is a testament to the city’s continuous evolution, while Tower Bridge embodies the Victorian era’s engineering prowess.

While connecting the city physically, these bridges also serve as gateways to London’s diverse offerings – from historical landmarks to culinary delights. Exploring both bridges offers travellers a fascinating juxtaposition of London’s past and present, leaving an indelible mark of admiration for the city’s architectural and historical marvels.

I set off a bit of a firestorm here on The London Traveler recently when I wrote about London pubs. Specifically, it was what I wrote about tipping at London pubs; it’s not necessary.

That seemed to be quite provocative, and based on the comments, that is certainly not the case across the UK. So I’d like to write a little bit more on the most confusing of topics for a visitor to a new country: tipping.

Tipping in General

While tipping still happens in the UK, it is neither quite as common nor as much as it is in the US/North America. Many professions in the US which are paid specifically less than the minimum wage because they earn tips are paid at least a minimum wage in the UK. While tipping is always appreciated, you won’t be chased down the street by someone screaming at you for a cheap (or non-existent) tip.

At the Pub

As I mentioned in a previous post, tipping in London pubs is not required. If you really want to tip the staff, buy them a drink by saying something along the lines of “and one for yourself.” They’ll then add the cost of their drink to your bill.

However, as the comments to that post noted, tipping in pubs is done elsewhere in the UK. This is probably where you need to do a bit of follow-the-leader. If there’s a jar for tips, and/or other customers are leaving tips, then I would suggest you do the same. Rounding up to the nearest pound or adding 10-15% would be common in these establishments.

At a Restaurant

Tipping in restaurants is always done. In many cases, restaurants add an optional 12.5% service charge to the bill, which is the tip. You can choose to pay it or not (though I would certainly suggest paying it!), and if you feel particularly generous, you can add more.

When tipping at a restaurant, the average is 10-15%. If you use a credit card, the staff may need you to enter information on a tip into their handheld machine. The options are typically 10%, 12.5% and 15%, so choose what you’d like.

In a taxi

Tipping a cab driver is, again, not compulsory, but is a nice thing to do. If the driver has helped you with luggage, etc., you should really tip them, generally a pound a bag or so.

On a standard ride from point A to point B, you can tip if you wish; I generally round the fare to the nearest pound if I do choose to tip. Again, it’s not a problem if you choose not to tip, but it’s certainly appreciated when you do.

Summary

I hope this post has cleared up at least a little bit about tipping in London. (Again, the rest of the UK does vary from region to region.) It will be interesting to read your comments on my thoughts above. I hope you enjoy your visit!

P.S. Friendly Advice to My US Mates

Ah, my dear American mates! Now, I understand that across the pond, you lovely folks are quite generous with your tipping, aren’t you? Well, here’s a little cheeky advice from yours truly when you’re on this side of the Atlantic.

First off, while you lot might be tossing around dollars like confetti at a wedding, over here in Britain, we’re a bit… how shall I put it? Reserved. We Brits have this peculiar tradition where we actually pay our waiters a proper wage. Shocking, I know! So, when you’re in a restaurant, you might find yourself reaching for that wallet after a jolly good meal, but hold your horses! It’s not the done thing to leave a whopping 20% like you do in the States. If you truly feel the service was top-notch, a wee 10% is more than generous.

Popping into a pub for a pint? Now, I know in America, you tip your bartenders for every drink. But if you start doing that here, you’ll be the talk of the town, and not in a good way! Your bartender might give you a look as if you’ve grown a second head. It’s all on the house. (Well, not the drink – just the service.)

Last but not least, the cabbies! If you take a black cab and the driver doesn’t go in circles just to give you a grand tour of London, then feel free to round up the fare or toss them an extra quid or two. They’ll appreciate it, and you’ll get a lovely British “cheers” for your effort.

In a nutshell, my American friends, when in Britain, keep those dollars (or rather, pounds) close and remember we’re a bit more low-key with the tipping. And if you ever get confused, just think of me and do the opposite of what you’d do in the States. Happy travels! Cheers!

The Fabulous Tiny Twinings Tea Shop in London

Greetings, dear tea enthusiasts! As a Londoner with an insatiable passion for tea, it’s no wonder that my heart finds its home in the world’s oldest tea shop – Twinings on the Strand. Nestled within the bustling heart of London, this quaint, unassuming shop stands as a testament to the timelessness of quality tea. Journey with me as I delve deep into the history, intriguing factoids, and undeniable charm of Twinings Tea Shop.

History in Every Sip

Founded in 1706 by Thomas Twining, the tea shop has endured for over three centuries. Think about that for a moment. When Twinings first opened its doors, Queen Anne was on the throne, and the United Kingdom itself was in its infancy. Over the years, Twinings not only survived but thrived, witnessing London’s transformation from a historical giant into a modern metropolis.

And yet, amidst these swirling currents of time, the classic façade of the Twinings shop has remained relatively unchanged. Walking through its doors is akin to stepping back into a world where tea was not just a beverage but an event, an experience, a ritual.

Factoids and Fascinating Tidbits

Royal Warrant

Twinings boasts a Royal Warrant, which is an official endorsement from the British royal family. This endorsement means that Twinings has been supplying tea to the royal households since the days of Queen Victoria!

Logo Longevity

The Twinings logo, established in 1787, is believed to be the world’s oldest continually-used company logo. And if that doesn’t signify consistency and longevity, I don’t know what does.

Innovative Blends

Twinings introduced Earl Grey tea to the world. Legend has it that the blend was created for Charles Grey, the 2nd Earl Grey, to suit the water at his Northumbrian estate, which had a hint of lime to it.

A Whiff of Celebrities

Twinings has a long list of famous admirers. Jane Austen, a fellow tea enthusiast, mentioned Twinings in her personal correspondence, praising the quality of their teas. Sir Winston Churchill, another iconic British figure, was also known for his predilection for a robust Twinings brew.

The Experience

Visiting Twinings on the Strand is not just about buying tea; it’s a pilgrimage for any tea lover. The store itself is a sensory delight. The aged wooden floors, the original wooden countertops, the shelves lined with every conceivable type of tea, and the intoxicating aroma that envelops you as soon as you step in – it’s an experience unlike any other.

Moreover, the staff, with their encyclopedic knowledge of tea, are more than happy to regale you with tales, offer recommendations, or simply chat about the latest blends.

A Personal Note

For me, Twinings isn’t just a shop. It’s a testament to London’s resilience, its commitment to quality, and its love for tradition. As the world races forward, there’s a kind of solace in knowing that some things, like a good cup of Twinings tea, remain timeless.

Every time I hold a Twinings teacup, I don’t just sip a beverage; I partake in a tradition that’s older than most countries. It’s a humbling, magical experience, and I invite every tea lover – be you a Londoner or a visitor – to immerse yourself in this magnificent world.

Till our next tea journey, raise your cups high and let’s toast to tradition, quality, and the fabulous tiny Twinings Tea Shop in London!

Cheers

London, a city steeped in history, is also a beacon of modern architecture. Among its impressive skyline, the Lloyds Building, often referred to as the ‘Inside-Out Building’, is a standout. It’s not just a building; it’s a declaration of innovation, a symbol of London’s ever-evolving spirit.

History and Construction

The Lloyds Building, located at 1 Lime Street, houses the world-renowned insurance institution, Lloyd’s of London. Completed in 1986, this avant-garde construction took eight years in the making. The design genius behind this structure is Richard Rogers, who later became Lord Rogers of Riverside.

The building stands on a site occupied by Lloyds since 1928, but the current structure is the third to bear the Lloyds name. When conceiving its design, Rogers aimed for a building that was both functional and forward-thinking. The result? A timeless modern marvel.

Architectural Significance

At first glance, what grabs attention are the building’s exposed elements: ducts, lifts, staircases, and pipework, all positioned on the exterior. By placing these services outside, Rogers freed up internal space, thus maximising room for the building’s primary purpose – insurance trading.

This ‘inside-out’ architectural style isn’t just aesthetic. It serves a purpose. Exteriorly placed elements can be easily maintained or replaced without disturbing the building’s core function.

Design Elements

• Towers: The Lloyds Building comprises three main towers and three service towers around a central, rectangular space.
• Materials: Stainless steel, concrete, and glass dominate the structure. The building’s reflective properties ensure it gleams, adjusting its shade depending on London’s often moody sky.
• Lifts: One of the building’s iconic features is its external glass lifts. They were among the first of their kind in the UK, offering passengers a panoramic view of London as they ascend.

Inside the Icon

While the exterior speaks of modernity, inside, the building pays homage to Lloyds’ rich heritage. The Underwriting Room is the beating heart of the building. Its centrepiece is the Lutine Bell, salvaged from the ship Lutine. Traditionally, the bell rang to announce the fate of a ship – once for its loss and twice for its safe return.

Sustainability

Even before it became a trend, the Lloyds Building stood for sustainability. Its deep-plan design maximises natural light, reducing the need for artificial lighting. The building’s flexibility means that it can adapt to technological advancements and evolving work practices.

Recognition and Legacy

In 2011, the Lloyds Building received Grade I listed status, making it the youngest structure ever to achieve this. It’s a testament to its significance in architectural history. The building has paved the way for radical designs worldwide, proving that form and function can coexist harmoniously.

The Building in Popular Culture

The Lloyds Building, with its futuristic design, has caught the eye of many filmmakers and artists. It has been featured in films, television shows, and even music videos, often used as a backdrop to depict a modern or dystopian world.

Here are a few of them.

Films

• “Highlander” (1986): The building can be seen as one of the modern structures of 1980s London.
• “Entrapment” (1999): Featuring Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones, the Lloyds Building makes a brief appearance.
• “Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again” (2018): In a quick London cityscape shot, the iconic structure can be spotted.

Television Shows

• “Sherlock” (BBC series): The Lloyds Building has appeared in some shots of London’s skyline in this modern adaptation of Sherlock Holmes.
• “Spooks” (MI-5 in some regions): Given the show’s contemporary setting in London, the Lloyds Building has made occasional appearances.
• “Doctor Who”: Given the show’s penchant for iconic London locations, the Lloyds Building has been seen in a few episodes.

While these are some instances, the building’s use in media is expansive. Its unique architecture ensures that it remains a popular choice for creators wanting to capture a blend of historical and modern London.

Visiting the Lloyds Building

Though it’s a functional building, Lloyds occasionally opens its doors to the public, primarily during the annual London Open House weekend. Visitors get a chance to experience the underwriting room, ascend in the glass lifts, and take in the breathtaking views from the Committee Room.

The Lloyds Building isn’t just an architectural wonder; it’s a representation of London’s spirit. In a city that holds its history dear, the building shows that there’s room for the new. It’s a bridge between past and future, tradition and innovation. Like London itself, the Lloyds Building is timeless, always ready to face the future while nodding to its past.

Richmond Park – London’s Sprawling Oasis

London, with its rich tapestry of history and culture, offers a relentless pace. For those longing for a breath of fresh air away from the urban jungle, Richmond Park stands out as a verdant haven.

A Historical Overview

Spanning an impressive 2,500 acres, Richmond Park holds the distinction of being Europe’s largest enclosed park, a legacy left by Charles I. Although enclosed during his reign, its royal roots stretch back another 400 years. Today, the park boasts designations as both a National Nature Reserve and a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Accessibility and Costs

The joys of Richmond Park are available without an admission fee. Expenses might only arise from food or optional activities.

Reaching Richmond Park:

• Public Transport: Hop onto the District Line Tube or the National Rail to Richmond Station. From there, the 371 or 65 bus routes will ferry you directly to the Petersham gate.
• By Car: If you’re inclined to drive, Richmond Park provides six parking spaces within its perimeter.

Activities and Experiences

• Leisure: The vastness of Richmond Park allows for tranquil spots to simply relax and soak in nature.
• Cycling: Pedal your way through dedicated paths. For those without their own bicycles, rentals are available near the Roehampton Gate.
• Jogging: The park’s picturesque trails offer a refreshing backdrop for your runs.
• Horseback Riding: Experience the park through dedicated equestrian routes.
• Golf: Golf enthusiasts can take a swing at one of the park’s two 18-hole courses.
• Fishing: For a calm day out, fishing is an option. Do remember to get a permit, available on-site.
• Power Kiting: Experience the thrill of kite-surfing but on terra firma. Enrol for lessons and feel the adrenaline rush on the park’s vast grasslands.

Landmarks and Spectacles

• Henry VIII’s Hill: As you near Richmond Gate, ascend to the park’s highest point. The panoramic views of the City of London, notably featuring St. Paul’s Cathedral, are nothing short of breathtaking. Remarkably, these vistas are so esteemed that they enjoy legal protection.
• Pembroke Lodge: This Georgian mansion has transitioned from a historic marvel to a sought-after restaurant and event venue. The estate offers captivating views, serving as a reminder of the park’s beauty.
• The Deer: A signature of Richmond Park is its resident deer herd. While they’ve grown accustomed to human presence, a respectful distance ensures safety. Yet, they are photogenic subjects, offering ample opportunities for captivating snapshots.

Richmond Park isn’t just another park; it’s an experience, an escape, a breath of fresh countryside air in the heart of London. Dive into its beauty and history, and find your corner of calm in the city’s sprawling expanse.

Featured photo credit @MarkAshleyG

The Lay of the Land

Tucked away from the hustle of London’s main thoroughfares are its charming secrets: narrow lanes and cosy streets that paint a different portrait of the city. Not far from Oxford Street, you’ll stumble upon one such gem: St. Christopher’s Place.

You won’t find St. Christopher’s Place sprawling across a map with prominent markings. No, it’s discreet — almost whispering for you to find it. Shaped like an ‘H’, it comprises two elongated lanes running perpendicular to Oxford Street, with a shorter one bridging the two.

A Gastronomic Delight

The area thrives as a gastronomic haven. It’s a delightful parade of restaurants, each with its own slice of the world’s culinary offerings. Whether you fancy a rich Italian pasta, a French delicacy, a juicy burger, a Turkish feast, or just a hearty pizza, you’re in for a treat. And the experience is elevated, thanks to the outdoor seating that almost every restaurant there boasts. As you sip your wine or enjoy your meal, the world continues in a blur around you, yet you’re comfortably ensconced in this enclave of serenity.

Shopping Extravaganza

But it’s not all about food. St. Christopher’s Place is also a treasure trove for those with a penchant for shopping. As you saunter through, you’ll discover boutique stores offering clothing that stands out, glittering jewellery shops, and places where you can find chic accessories. A word to the wise, though — it leans towards the high-end, so your wallet might feel a bit lighter after a spree.

Festive Magic in the Air

Time your visit around Christmas, and you’re in for an even grander spectacle. The area transforms into a winter wonderland, with twinkling lights creating a canopy overhead. The radiant glow of Christmas decorations adds to the magic, casting a warm hue over everything. There’s a special allure to London during the festive season, and St. Christopher’s Place captures that essence brilliantly.

Finding the Hidden Jewel

Now, you might wonder: how does one find this hidden gem? Here’s a hint. As you walk down Oxford Street, let your eyes wander to the north side. Between the O2 and H&M stores, there’s an alleyway. At first glance, it seems like it’s just wide enough for a single person. Venture in, and it soon broadens out, revealing the wonders of St. Christopher’s Place. A hallmark of this entrance is a clock, accompanied by a sign — both of which can be seen if you look closely enough.

A Cinematic Touch

For those who regard cinema as a mirror to reality, you might recognise this place from the film “Love Actually” Remember the tender scene where Alan Rickman and Emma Thompson cross paths before they embark on their Christmas shopping spree? Yes, that was right in the heart of St. Christopher’s Place.

So the next time you’re on Oxford Street, perhaps overwhelmed by the crowd and the ceaseless energy, and yearn for a more tranquil spot to dine or simply to gather your thoughts, let St. Christopher’s Place be your refuge. It’s a reminder that even in the heart of a sprawling city, there are pockets of calm and charm, just waiting to be discovered.

Football is a Tribal Thing

Football in London is a tribal thing. I remember speaking to a local supermarket owner in Stoke Newington. He supported Trabzon Spor because he came from Trabzon; Fenerbahce, because it was a great team; and Arsenal, ‘of course’.

Now if you live in Stoke Newington, you have two local teams you can choose – Arsenal (’the gooners’) or Tottenham Hotspur (’spurs’). London is a very big place when it comes to football, with five Premiership teams and many more in other leagues, but loyalty is often very parochial.

Well, this article, being a snapshot in time from 2009, describes with plenty of nostalgia the glory days of one particular London football club, I am going to start my list with.

So, imagine you just found a time machine and teleported yourself back into 2009, right in the middle of the first part of the season of the top league of British football. Here is what you are most likely to find.

The Premiership Teams

• Arsenal. This used to be Woolwich Arsenal, named after the dockyard, but the team moved to north London in 1913.  Managed by suave Frenchman Mr Arsene Wenger, it’s one of the top British teams and, on its day, plays probably the most beautiful football in the world. Unless you support Spurs. It plays at the Emirates Stadium. Arsenal’s home colours are red, and you can see the origins of its name in the cannon that figures on its coat of arms.
• Spurs. The other north London team, the inveterate enemy of Arsenal. This team plays at White Hart Lane; when they play against Arsenal, it’s called ‘the North London Derby’. The home colours are white, and the crest is a cockerel standing on a football.
• Chelsea. This team plays at Stamford Bridge. (Don’t do the same as that poor chap who put ‘Stamford Bridge’ in his satnav and ended up in Yorkshire; make sure you use the London postcode, which is SW6 1HS.) Russian oligarch Roman Abramovich has spent millions on the club, buying expensive players, hiring and firing managers (Mourinho, Scolari, and now Guus Hiddink), and turning it into the club everybody loves to hate. (Except for Chelsea supporters, of course.) Considering Manchester United had filled that spot for the last, what, thirty years, that’s quite some achievement. Home colours are royal blue, and the crest shows a lion holding a staff.
• Fulham, playing at Craven Cottage, is Chelsea’s local rival in the ‘West London Derby’. Fulham only just survived in the Premiership last year but has managed to stay mid-table this year.  This club is owned by Harrods boss Mohammed al-Fayed. The home colours are black and white, and the shield simply shows the letters FFC for Fulham Football Club.  Official mascot Billy the Badger (picking up on the black and white colours of the club) was sent off last year during a match for breakdancing on the pitch while the game was in progress.
• The last of the five premiership clubs is West Ham, based at Upton Park, which plays in claret and blue. Famous for its team anthem, ‘I’m forever blowing bubbles’. West Ham was at one time noted for its hooligans, the ‘Inter City Firm’, and had particular trouble with old rival Millwall FC: Milwall no longer plays in the Premier League (it’s in League One, below the Championship and so two leagues below West Ham) so there’s no occasion for trouble now.

Below these clubs, though, London has many more. In the Championship, the league below the Premiership, there are three; Charlton Athletic, Crystal Palace, and Queens Park Rangers (QPR).

The Weird One

The strangest of the ‘London’ clubs is Wimbledon. Yes, Wimbledon is in London – but the club isn’t. It moved to Milton Keynes in 2004 and is now known as the MK Dons.

You’ll find many people, even if they support one of the major clubs, have a soft spot for Leyton Orient, which plays at the Matchroom Stadium in Brisbane Road, Leyton, east London. Leyton Orient’s team are often known simply as ‘the O’s’. Famously, it was bought for five quid in 1995 – a far cry from the multi-million-pound deals being done in the Premiership!

But its great claim to fame is the Leyton Orient Supporters’ Club, which is celebrated for its commitment to real ale, and hosts regular beer festivals which, odd to relate, usually coincide with at least one football match.

I used to work with someone who told me Leyton Orient used to be a great club. (This is true.) He also told me that in the old days, when it was called Clapton Orient, it won the FA Cup. That was a fib. The furthest they ever got was the semi-final (in 1978). Probably just as well; it’s a lovely club, and too much success might have spoiled it…

Photo credit Ben Sutherland.